ludo i brzo

14 Nov, 2008

Versaj

— Autor oliva @ 08:52

 Na mestu nekadašnje bezvodne pustopoljine, najdugovečniji francuski kralj Luj XIV podigao je veličanstvenu palatu okruženu prostranim vrtovima i mnogobrojnim fontanama, koja predstavlja vrhunac graditeljskog umeća 17. veka u ovom delu Evrope. Na tridesetak kilometara od Pariza prostirala se močvarna oblast zvana Pustopoljina. Gola zemlja sa oskudnim žbunjem jedva da je zadovoljavala potrebe životinja koje je sa dvorskom svitom lovio Luj XIII, kralj Francuske. Kad bi se umorili ili poželeli da se sklone od kiše, odlazili su u kraljev lovački paviljon – jedinu zgradu u toj goleti… I ko bi tad pomislio da će posle pola veka na toj beskorisnoj pustari punim sjajem zablistati Versaj, jedan od najraskošnijih dvoraca sveta! 


 Sagradio ga je Luj XIV, Kralj Sunce, vladar koji je 72 godine upravljao Francuskom i Navarom. Pored toga što je bio ratnik i diplomata, uspešno se izborio sa svim poteškoćama oko izgradnje dvorca koji je zasenio sve dotadašnje. Kralj za taj poduhvat nije koristio stručnjake, on se njima služio, baš kao što je činio sa državom i narodom. Bio je apsolutista i naredbodavac.
 Angažovao je vrhunske umetnike koji su do najmanje pojedinosti procenjivali, planirali i nastojali da u svemu stvore izvesnu simboliku – stoga nije slučajno da su kraljevsku sobu postavili baš u sredinu versajskog zdanja.
Po zahtevu Njegovog veličanstva sve je moralo imati velike dimenzije i biti glamurozno, bez obzira na to da li je to predsoblje, odaja, hodnik, vrt ili fontana… Tako je razdaljina od glavne lože do Apolonovog bazena iznosila čitav kilometar! A prilazni putevi su bili široki 70 metara, iako su njima išle samo kočije i konjanici.
 Versajski vrt je nedeljiva celina dvora i zauzima površinu od 2.000 hektara. Za razliku od engleskih i italijanskih, francuski vrtovi su stvoreni po merama čoveka, a vegetacija podređena geometrijski pravim linijama, pa tako recimo i od Apolonove fontane do Velikog i Malog Trijanona vode široke i prave avenije.
 

 Igra prostora, vode i svetlosti u fontanama je posebno čudo Versaja. Pošto su bile ponos Luja XIV, svaki posetilac bio je u obavezi da ih vidi. Kralj je sam izdavao naređenje da mlazevi vode iz njih dostignu vrhunac i savršenstvo u trenutku kad bi se on lično pojavljivao. Fontana ima ukupno 23, od kamena ili od bronze, a da bi uživali u njihovoj raskoši savremeni posetioci dolaze u vreme „Velike igre“, kad se hiljadu mlazeva ukrsti, isprepleće i istovremeno podigne put neba.
Žitelji Francuske su se pitali kako će Kralj Sunce (tako je nazivao sebe po nebeskom telu koje daje svima život, i povezano je sa Apolonom, bogom mira i umetnosti) na terenu bez vode sagraditi građevinu sa bezbrojnim vodoskocima i već pomenutim fontanama. Stručnjaci koje je angažovao Luj XIV dosetili su se da pomoću 221 pumpe crpu vodu iz Sene, tako da se za 24 sata prema Versaju slivalo 6.000 kubnih metara vode. Kada je taj prvi i veliki problem bio rešen, kralj je odobrio projekat i godine 1661. arhitekta Le Vo započeo je izgradnju, zajedno sa slikarom Le Brenom, zaduženim za unutrašnji dekor, i Le Notrom, baštovanom i umetnikom koji je konstruisao parkove.
 

Kralj je svakog dana dolazio na gradilište. Posmatrao je i kritikovao, ispravljao, dopunjavao i odobrava.  Ništa ga nije moglo zaustaviti; ni povrede radnika, ni česte epidemije groznice, ni njihov gnev i nezadovoljstva zbog napora i hladnoće. Na izgradnji Versaja učestvovalo je 36.000 ljudi iz cele Francuske, dok je 6.000 konja prevozilo građevinski materijal. Brusači mermera, zlatari, slikari, i vajari – svi su se trudili da naprave svoja vrhunska dela i iza sebe ostave večni trag. Postepeno se pomaljala zgrada sa 375 prozora na 580 metara dugačkoj fasadi.
 Jedan od arhitekata će ostati zauvek upamćen, Žil Arden Mansar, idejni tvorac i danas popularnih i u celom svetu prihvaćenih (po njemu nazvanih) mansardi, koji je kao Le Voov sledbenik završio izgradnju dvorca. Građen je 21 godinu, a 6. maja 1682. Luj XIV se zauvek preselio u dvorac koji je predstavljao vrhunac raskoši i sjaja. Impozantan broj plemića i njihovih porodica smatralo je posebnom privilegijom da, boraveći u dvorcu, doživotno služe kralja.
 

 Od bezbroj versajskih odaja ne može se izdvojiti najlepša ni najraskošnija – sve su takve, razlika je bila jedino – u nameni. U jednoj su služeni hladni i topli napici, u drugoj kandirano voće, u trećoj slatkiši, tu je dvorana u kojoj su održavani balovi, pa sale za svečane večere, za prijeme, za maskenbale. Posebno se isticala Dvorana izobilja, kraljev ponos, koju su mogli nazvati i Dvorana trezor, pošto su se tu nalazile najveće dragocenosti koje je vladar dobijao od državnika, diplomata i bogataša iz celog sveta kad su mu dolazili u posetu u Versaj. Luj XIV je uživao da sa svojom svitom lično provede dvorcem ugledne goste.
 Versajske spavaće sobe su posebna priča. Sastoje se od četiri odaje: u prvoj je boravila garda, iza nje je bilo predsoblje iz kojeg se ulazilo u kraljevu i kraljičinu spavaću sobu. Iznad kreveta su nezaobilazni baldahini čije su se boje i materijali menjali prema godišnjem dobu. Zidovi su obloženi tapiserijama i ukrašeni slikama u ramovima od zlata.
 Kraljičina spavaća soba u pastelnim tonovima, ukrašena zlatnim svećnjacima i bezbrojnim figurama od žada i bronze, ima neobično visoke krevete. Naime, i pored velikih kamina, visoke i prostrane kraljevske odaje su se teško zagrevale, pa kako topliji vazduh stremi nagore, neko je pomislio da bi bilo toplije ukoliko i postelje budu više. U jednoj od njih, sa purpurno-brokatnim zastorima, rođeno je čak osamnaestoro dece. U to doba je rađanje kraljevskog deteta smatrano javnim činom, posebno ako se očekivao naslednik trona. Najmanje 100 ljudi je moralo prisustvovati porođaju, da bi utvrdili da je kraljević zaista rođen i da kojim slučajem nije podmetnut!
 U jednom od salona nalazi se slika Luja XIV u prirodnoj veličini. Kralj je bio narcisoidan i uvek je isticao sopstvenu lepotu. Posebno je smatrao da ima savršeno oblikovane listove. Da bi ih istakao uvek se slikao sa obnaženim nogama koje je na svim slikama koketno izbacivao u prvi plan. 
Tu je i 70 metara dugačka Dvorana ogledala. Sa desne strane nalazi se 17 prozora, a preko puta svakog – ogledalo istih dimenzija. Kristalni lusteri imali su 100 sveća koje bi bile zapaljene prilikom velikih prijema ili poseta stranih gostiju Versaju. U ovoj odaji 28. juna 1919. godine je potpisan Versajski mirovni ugovor između Nemačke i pobedničkih snaga u Prvom svetskom ratu. Veličanstvenim hodnikom koji povezuje salone rata i mira izlazi se u Dvorište ministara, potom u botaničku baštu sa biljkama iz cele Evrope. Inače, plafoni salona rata i mira su ukrašeni freskama posvećenim Marsu, starogrčkom bogu rata. Ovakvih fresaka ima u mnogim prostorijama u dvorcu i svaka je posvećena nekom antičkom božanstvu.
 U versajskoj palati Kralj Sunce je svoju izuzetno dugotrajnu vladavinu podelio u tri perioda koja je nazvao vreme odvažnosti, vreme prezira i vreme iskušenja. Voleo je ratovanje, borbu i osvajanje, ali i raskoš, žene, zabave, lov, maskenbale… Kad su mu luksuz, i ceremonije dosadili, naredio je da mu se u Marliju sagrade paviljoni u koje se povukao sa porodicom. Kasnije je sagradio Veliki Trijanon, rezidenciju u prirodi. Kad su ga pitali šta će mu sve to odgovorio je: „Versaj sam sagradio za dvor, Marli za prijatelje, a Trijanon za sebe i svoju prijateljicu madam de Menton!” Petit Trianon je sagradio Jacques ange Gabriel , kao neoklasičnu vilu na području zamka Versaja za Luja XiVi Madam de Pompidur. Građevina je poznata po svojoj jenostavnosti i skladnim proporcijama. Kasnije je postala omiljeno utočiste Marie Antoinette , žene LujaXVI.

 

 Luj XIV je postepeno gubio interesovanje za dvorac, u javnosti se pojavljivao retko i samo na zvaničnim prijemima. Umro je pet dana pre svog 77. rođendana. Kada je osetio da je kraj blizu, svom nasledniku je rekao: „Ti olakšaj breme narodu i učini mu ono što sam ja imao nesreću da ne učinim…” 

 Sve do 6. oktobra 1789. godine, kada je – po izbijanju Francuske revolucije – kralj Luj XVI iz svoje palate odveden u Tiljerije, najraskošniji dvorac Francuske zadržao je svoj glamurozni sjaj i značaj, ali posle toga nailaze teški dani i on brzo siromaši i propada. Tek u 20. veku je obnovljen i proglašen muzejem. Danas kroz Versaj svakodnevno prođe više od 10.000 posetilaca, ali, kažu, prihod od ulaznica nije dovoljan da pokrije njegovo održavanje, pa i država dodaje određenu sumu.
 Uporedo sa gradnjom palate nastajalo je i mesto Versaj, koje je danas jedno od najprestižnijih u Francuskoj. Dovoljno je reći da tu živite, pa da vas kategorišu kao „nobles”. Sve je u ovom gradiću – za koji bi bilo uvredljivo reći da je predgrađe Pariza – još zadržalo patinu prošlih vremena. Potomci plemićkih porodica, imućni i uticajni, tu još uvažavaju stare vrednosti i neguju osobeni stil života koji im nameće versajsko poreklo.

 Kralj Sunce Luj XIV je rođen 1643. godine. Krunisan je za kralja Francuske kad je imao pet godina i vladao je do svoje 77. godine. Nadživeo je i sina i unuka, nasledio ga je tek praunuk Luj XV.
 Pošto je bio veoma mlad, Kralj Sunce je do punoletstva imao regente. Kad ih se oslobodio, uzviknuo je dobro poznatu rečenicu: „Država, to sam ja!” I mada je imao premijera, bezbroj savetnika i pomoćnika, sve moguće odluke donosio je sam. Da bi predupredio dvorske spletke, doneo je odluku da prestonicu iz Pariza preseli u Versaj. Bio je neobičan i nepredvidljiv čovek, a neki zapisi kažu i egocentrik i megaloman! Za vreme izgradnje dvorca naredio je da nijedno krilo, deo ili odaja ne sme biti sagrađena iznad njegove rezidencije ili kraljevske sobe. Jedini izuzetak je bila belo-zlatna kapelica u koju je svako jutro išao na molitvu. A pre odlaska na misu odigravao se uvek isti ritual pod nazivom „javno buđenje kralja”, kojem su prisustvovale najeminentnije ličnosti. Svi dvorani koji bi ušli u kraljevu sobu morali su hodati – savijenih kolena. Kad bi oblačenje i umivanje bilo završeno, i kralj sa povorkom krenuo prema kapelici, na scenu su stupali molioci. Šta god je kome trebalo zatražio bi od vladara baš na tom kratkom putu. „Kralj je tad najmekši!”, šaputali su u nadi da će im još pospani vladar lakše ispuniti želju.


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